Before we get more in depth, it’s worth noting that patina is not a term exclusively associated with leather. Patina refers to any change in a material’s surface due to natural aging and exposure to the elements. Forming a patina is a standard part of the natural aging process for premium leather, involving gradual changes in the leather’s physical properties. Aged leather goods have greater depth when it comes to color and texture; they often possess a subtle sheen and become increasingly supple. Natural leather is an organic material that ages gracefully over time. The development of patina is dependent on a range of factors that roughly fall into two larger categories: how the leather is used and the climate. The type of leather displays a patina ‘breathes’ — meaning that it absorbs moisture and oils from the atmosphere or through being handled. Think of premium leather goods that frequently come into contact with human skin, like briefcases, cardholders and belts; they gradually accumulate dirt and body oils, and are exposed to elements like sun and rain — all of which alter their appearance. Interestingly, each variable makes a different stamp on leather, for example rain can lead to water marks and sunlight encourages a golden tone to appear.
The main variables that influence how patina develops on leather are:
Worn leather features a unique vintage charm that many desire. Freshly produced leather items are beautiful in their uniformity, but they acquire unrivaled aesthetic appeal through the appearance of imperfections and the emergence of distinct colors.
A frequently used cognac leather bag is likely to take on a deeper, richer tone over the years. Part of patina’s attraction is that it is also a visual indicator of high-grade leather, because only leather taken from the outermost layer of an animal’s skin, the strongest — and most expensive — part of the hide, will go on to develop a natural leather patina. High-quality leather also takes on a number of beneficial physical attributes as it ages. Patina provides a protective layer that enhances longevity and also makes certain leather goods softer to touch. Patina is also a reflection of the individual because it responds based on how you use your leather goods.
Do all leathers form a Patina?
There are four main types of leather: full-grain, top-grain, corrected grain and genuine leather, but only the two highest grades (full-grain and — to a considerably lesser extent — top-grain) will exhibit patina. Tanning method plays an important role as well, like Vegetable-tanned leather will show a patina, but chrome-tanned leather will usually not. Tanneries smooth and buff away the grain to remove perceived imperfections and create a uniform material. One consequence is that the pores of the leather become sealed, preventing the material’s ability to breathe and eventually slowing down the patination process. Tanneries use a variety of chemical substances to turn animal hides into leather, when instead Vegetable tanning — a traditional technique dating back thousands of years — makes use of natural tannins that occur in bark or fruits. Chrome tanning was established in the 19th century and primarily utilizes chromium sulphate as an agent. Chrome-tanned leathers are always dyed and given heavier finish coatings, thanks to synthetic blankets who help to achieve the right look and feel, while also rendering the leather impermeable — and often unable to form a patina.
Signs of patina could emerge within a week, a month or even a year. The change is gradual and often only self-evident when you look at ‘before and after’ pictures. Patience is key — but for those eager to accelerate the process and get patina on their leather goods there’s one solution: frequent use.