It is estimated that the first tannery in Santa Croce sull’Arno opened in the early 1800s. Still today, this Tuscan town stands as one of the most active and renowned tanning hubs in both Italy and worldwide, with over 600 companies involved in leather tanning and processing. Within this district, both artisanal and industrial realities coexist, including niche-specialized producers (the ones we work with) focusing on refined leathers such as full grain, vegetable-tanned leather and vacchetta.
The term “Full Grain” refers to the outermost layer of the hide, where the fiber density is the highest. From a material point of view, this results in greater durability, natural aging, and the development of a rich patina over time.
Vegetable tanning is a process that transforms raw animal hides into durable leather using natural tannins, which are powdered extracts derived from plants, especially from the bark. This method offers greater sustainability and authenticity, avoiding the use of chemical agents like chromium, which are still widely used in the industry. Each step of the process requires patience: vegetable tanning is a choice of quality, not speed. The result is a leather that is superior in character, long-lasting, and improves with age.
Vacchetta leather, in particular, is sourced from by-products of the food industry, using hides of adult cattle. A Tuscan specialty for over two centuries, it is uncoated, meaning it absorbs light, air, and even the oils from your hands developing a unique patina. Though initially stiff, it softens beautifully with use.